
We’re still in Madrid, though this time just beyond its center. Here, a modest two-story chalet overlooking the banks of the Manzanares river has somewhat unexpectedly become one of the city’s most compelling tables: OSA. Both local regulars and in-the-know travelers have been flocking to the carefully restored space, drawn to a cooking style that resists easy classification.
Measured and functional without excess, the restaurant works with seasonal tasting menus, in both long and short formats, shaped by what’s available at any given moment. The sequence moves through cured meats, offal, game, and fish—many of them aged, rested, or smoked in-house—with a level of attention that feels controlled rather than showy. “It’s a deeply personal place, very different from what everyone already knows. That’s why I keep going back,” says Diego Murciego, chef of Desde 1911, featured in last week’s installment of this Food Chain.