I
n Vila Medeiros, a far-flung district on the northern edge of São Paulo, Rodrigo Oliveira built a restaurant that has become a pilgrimage site for chefs and industry professionals looking to experience sertaneja cuisine, originating in Brazil’s northeast. The fact that it sits beside the international airport is a logistical blessing.
In half a century, Mocotó has evolved from a dive bar opened by Oliveira’s father, José, into one of the city’s most sought-after tables for several reasons: its warm, democratic atmosphere; its deep ties to the surrounding community; and, most importantly, its food. Think sharply executed caipirinhas; gelatinous, restorative caldo de mocotó; baião de dois layered with rice, beans, and dried meat; and the popular dadinhos de tapioca, bite-size cubes of tapioca starch and fresh cheese that are crisp outside but elastic within (Chef Diego Rossi called them “absolutely fantastic” when recommending Mocotó in our conversation last week).
