There may still be bits of glitter lodged beneath a rug or tucked into a corner of the dining room. Inside Evvai, the mood still carries traces of a recent upheaval: in early April, the restaurant led by chef Luis Filipe Souza and pastry chef Bianca Mirabili reached a new tier in global gastronomy with a distinction unprecedented not only for them, or for São Paulo and Brazil, but for an entire continent.
Alongside Tuju, another inventive restaurant in the same city, Evvai became the first restaurant to receive three stars from the Michelin Guide in Latin America. It is no small feat, one achieved by both restaurants within a guide that has long set the terms of recognition in global gastronomy, even if those terms have often been written from Europe. “We’re still having a hard time believing it,” Souza says.
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